This is a record of a solo foot journey undertaken by Jim Gradziel in the year 1978 following the Pacific Crest Trail from its beginning at the Mexican border just outside of Campo, California, to its end at the Canadian border in Manning Provincial Park, in British Columbia, Canada. The journey started on May 5 and was completed on October 5, some five million footsteps later.

The Pacific Crest Trail stretches roughly 2,600 miles from the US/Mexican Border in the California town of Campo to Monument 78, a concrete monolith marking the US/Canadian border in Washington state. The trail extends through the states of California, Oregon, and Washington, mainly along the crest of the mountain ranges of those states. The route traverses lands rich in natural resources and beauty that vary from the dry California desert to the verdant North Cascades, and from the High Sierra to the deep Columbia River Gorge. The route passes through 23 National Forests and seven National Parks. The trail incorporates the John Muir Trail in the Sierra Nevadas, the Oregon Skyline Trail and the Cascade Crest trail in Washington.

Everything I needed to survive I carried on my back. My shelter, my bed, my kitchen and my wardrobe, all selected for weight and utility, fit neatly into my backpack. My shelter was a 2 man backpacker tent from Sierra Designs, my bed a down sleeping bag from LL Bean and an ensolite pad to isolate me from the cold hard ground. My kitchen gear included a SVEA 123 backpacker stove, which burned white gas as well as unleaded auto gas; a Sierra Cup, a mess kit, two 1/2 liter fuel bottles, two water bottles, and a collapsible 1 1/2 gallon water jug. My wardrobe included a rain poncho, hat for shielding from the desert sun, shorts, pants, shirts, jacket, and a pair of down booties. I also carried a 35 mm camera, zoom lens, and tripod. Along the way, I purchased a telescoping fishing rod. Miscellaneous items included a first aid kit, small radio, maps and guidebooks and a journal. My backpack was a Kelty Tioga; a pack that had served me well in hiking the Appalacian Trail. I typically carried food for 7 to 10 days. I usually resupplied at stores along the route, though I did arrange for mailed food drops in a few isolated sections. My menu included oatmeal and cocoa for breakfasts, bread, peanut butter and jam for lunches, and dry soup, instant rice, instant potatoes, macaroni, cheese, and dried meats for dinners. I regularly made instant puddings for desert and Jello, which set overnight and was eaten first thing in the morning. I wore a pair of heavy duty backpacking boots and took care to pay attention to my feet at the end of every day.

The spring of 1978 brought an abundance of sunshine and wildflowers to southern California. The first part of the trail followed a temporary route along paved and dirt roads and the route was not clearly marked. The maps I was carrying were not particularly detailed and I navigated by dead reckoning. I managed to get lost several times but always managed to find myself again. I got into snow the first time at Mt San Jacinto, but was back into dry semi-desert the next day. The route followed a washed out Whitewater River to its source on the northern slope of the San Gorgonio Mountains.

The hot springs at Deep Creek Canyon offered a refreshing soak followed by immersion in ice-cold Deep Creek. A troop of Boy Scouts hosted me among the beautiful wildflowers at Cajon Pass just east of Los Angeles. A week later I began to cross the Mojave Desert, packing two gallons of water and hiking at night. Unfortunately, in the daytime, my water heated to air temperature of 100 degrees F. and was not very refreshing. The route shortly began to follow the buried Los Angeles Aqueduct and I managed to figure out a way to "borrow" some of that cool mountain water.

On June 3, I reached the beginnings of the High Sierras and had to change plans because of deep snow and high water in the mountains. I temporarily bypassed the Sierras and rejoined the Pacific Crest Trail at Belden, in northern California. The northern California terrain was quite different from that of the south and, though I was intermittently back in snow, the hiking was very enjoyable. I was invited to lunch at the Stump Ranch by Barbara Frost and was the first hiker of the year to sign her logbook.

The route led toward Mt Shasta, and I spent a day of R & R in Castle Crags State Park near Castella. The mountain lakes were just starting to get free of ice and the fish were ravenous (but so was I!). On June 27, I crossed the state line into Oregon and was greeted with my first real rain of the trip. I stopped for a day in Ashland, Oregon, home to a Shakespeare Company, and watched half of "Richard III" before the production got rained out.

The fourth of July found me at Crater Lake, and shortly thereafter I was introduced to the scourge of the Northwest Woods. The trail took me by the Three Sisters, some of the most spectacular mountain peaks I'd yet seen. The gorgeous days of hiking through this wilderness area were followed by several days of rain and low clouds that totally obstructed the view. Finally the weather cleared as I was approaching Mt Jefferson, and for the next several days I walked among the huckleberry bushes and forested trail to the base of Mt Hood. Finally, on July 22, I descended from the ridge top to the Columbia River Gorge, and the town of Cascade Locks.

The next seven days were spent back in civilization, hitch-hiking, visiting friends, and bus riding through sweltering summer days as I made my way back to the trail in southern California, from where I had skipped north nearly two months previous. On July 29, I rode a Greyhound into the town of Bakersfield and then hitched a ride to Weldon, California, at the foot of the High Sierras. The snow and flood that blocked the path in June was largely gone. I packed provisions for 18 days and set off down the dusty desert trail for the snow-covered highlands.

The trail into and through the High Sierras was very different from the lush, forested path I had left in Oregon. The trail was mostly open, winding around boulders, across streams, and over mountain passes. There was little shelter from the hot sun and afternoon thunderstorms were common. I stashed my gear trailside and took a day trip to the top of Mt Whitney, at 14,494 ft, the highest mountain in the lower forty-eight. The peak was snow free, but kind of crowded. There was a stone shelter at the top, which, being sheltered from the sun was still full of snow.

I finally managed to catch some fish for dinner at Twin Lakes. I'm sure the fish were stocked, as the lake was small and high enough in elevation to freeze solid in the winter. By August 16 I was in Lyell Canyon, at the edge of Yosemite Park. The park was very popular with hikers and even more popular with the bears that have become quite skilled at retrieving stashed food. This was the site of my one and only hostile bear encounter of the trip. As I left Yosemite, the wind picked up and the people thinned out. The trail wound across the ridge tops through an abundance of wildflowers and the weather started getting colder with frost in the mornings.

My future wife Susan and sister Peg met me at Echo Lake and we hiked for a day together into Desolation Wilderness and camped on the shore of Aloha Lake. The next day I left Susan and Peg behind and continued on toward Canada. As I left the Sierras, I was once more hiking on temporary trail and roadways. I took a side trail to the fire tower at the top of the Sierra Buttes. I had seen a picture of the tower in the National Geographic and was determined to visit it.

A pair of Spotted Owls visited me in camp the night before I reached Belden, CA, the town I had skipped north to back in June when the Sierras were impassible. Susan met me at Belden and we drove north through rainy weather back to the Oregon/Washington state line where I had interrupted my hike to do the Sierras. The storm that rained on us dropped six feet of snow on the Sierras.

I paid a 25-cent pedestrian toll and crossed the Bridge of the Gods over the Columbia River and into Washington. I hiked through rain for several days before finally getting some dry sunny weather. The trail was now lined with oceans of huckleberries while Mt Adams, Mt Rainier, and Mt St Helens loomed on the horizon with new coats of snow.

I met Susan at White Pass and we hiked together for a couple days. The weather was getting more winter-like and for the first time on the trip, it snowed. We hiked through a couple inches of snow to Chinook Pass, where Susan returned to civilization and I returned to solo hiking. Warm sunshine melted the snow on the south side of the ridges while snowdrifts covered the north side. A few days of warm rain finally melted the last of the snow before I entered the Alpine Lakes Wilderness.

Rain and sunshine alternated as I approached Glacier Peak in northern Washington. I hiked around the peak in rain and drizzle and finally got some good views looking back from the north. I stayed in a trailside cabin just below Suiattle Pass alongside the remains of a maintenance crew camp. The last town near the trail before Canada is Stehekin, a resort town reached from the outside world by a long ferry ride down Lake Chelan and from the trail by shuttle bus.

After a final resuppluy and restaurant meal in Stehekin, I hiked the final 70 miles to the Canadian border and Manning Provincial Park. Five months to the day and some 4.5 million steps after planting footprints in the Mexican sand, I crossed the Canadian border at Monument 78.

Day 1 May 5, 1978 Temperature. Max. 76F

I’ve finally made it to Campo, the town near the beginning of the trail, after 7 days of hitching from Massachusetts. The last 50 miles were the slowest. Today at 12:00 noon I planted symbolic footsteps on the Mexican side of the barbed wire border fence and started walking north toward my destination, Canada. I stopped in Campo for food and checked for a package at the Post Office. I was expecting a backpack in the mail. Unfortunately it was shipped U.P.S. and they held it only seven days and shipped it back. I got here only a few days late. I’m having it mailed back to me a few weeks down the trail. The weather has been cloudy with a light drizzle and cooler than I expected. The hills around here are really beautiful though. There are no trees to speak of. The land is covered with scrub, grass, and cactus. Large boulders speckle the countryside.

California has had near record rainfall this past year. Reservoirs, which had been dried by the drought which experts said would take four years to fill, are now brimming. Mother Nature is celebrating with a wild flower display the likes of which have not been seen in recent years. Everywhere the land is in bloom.

I hiked about a mile off the trail to camp near a mountain spring. The water quality is questionable so I boil it or use purification tablets. I can see the valley stretch out below me from my tent. The trail so far has followed roads, some paved and some dirt. This is a temporary route and will eventually be relocated into the mountains.

Today was my first full day of hiking and it has been one gorgeous day. I’m off the roads and onto the trail. Early this morning I stopped at Cameron Station and got a camping permit for the Cleveland National Forest. The trail here has been completed. Incidentally the temperature got down to near freezing this morning.

I walked all morning on a trail surrounded by wildflowers. Everything is in bloom. The mountains are covered with sage, which is blossoming. Everywhere are rolling waves of white punctuated occasionally by the violet flowers of wild lilac. The air is alive with a mixture of a hundred scents. The skies have been mostly sunny all day. Just now they are almost clear. The trail stays near the mountain crests and the valleys wind a thousand feet below. This afternoon I climbed Mt. Laguna to the 6,000 ft. level. As I gained altitude the sage and scrub was replaced by a beautiful pine forest. The trail continued through lush vegetation for miles. There’s as Air Force radar station on the summit of the mountain. Nearby there’s a grocery store. I bought enough food to last several days. Tonight I’m camped in a tiny clearing under a pine tree along the trail on the west side of the mountain. I’m waiting for the sun to go down. It should be pretty. I got water for the night from a spring about 100 yds. down the trail. It looks good and I’m not going to treat it before use. The mountains and valley around here are mostly covered with scrub. However, the valleys that contain streams burst forth with greenery and trees. Towering oaks and willows are just beginning to get new leaves. My feet are in pretty good shape. I’ve got a few blisters but not enough to stop me or even slow me down. The trail here is fairly well marked and the walking is excellent. I passed two other hikers on the trail today. They were only out for the weekend. The trail register in Campo shows several border-to-border hikers ahead of me and I’ve been following tracks on the trail.

Today was another beautiful day, clear and cool. The scenery along the trail is really starting to get spectacular. I got my first glimpse of snow-covered mountains to the north. I think it is San Jacinto Peak where I’ll be in six days. This morning the trail alternated between sage and scrub covered mountains and beautiful pine meadows. The pathway stays high in the hills and the valleys unfold thousands of feet below. In some places the trail was blasted into a rocky ledge with a drop off to the valley bottom just inches away. All morning I walked through blossoming sage and lilac. I met one other hiker on the trail; he was only out for a short walk. This afternoon the trail became hotter and drier and the blossoming sage and other wildflowers less numerous. Though the temperature didn’t get above 80 the noonday sun and dry trail made the going a bit uncomfortable. The pine woods and sage were replaced by endless expanses of scrub. You could see the trail winding for miles in the distance, twisting around ridges and into valleys. Quite often I would surprise a lizard sunning himself on a rock and send him slithering into the scrub. This section of the trail doesn’t look well used. In places it’s overgrown with grass. It was hot hiking today even with a breeze. I’d hate to be here in July.

Tonight I’m camped next to a concrete springhouse near the top of the mountain. The outlet valve isn’t locked so I have an unlimited supply of good water. I really don’t know where I am. The trail doesn’t follow the route on my maps. As I look out from this mountain all I see are more mountains and an occasional dirt road. I’m on a dirt road now. There’s a sign pointing down the trail that says "Warren Springs". That’s where I’m supposed to be in two days so I guess I’ll get there. The birds are singing the sun to sleep. I just saw a hummingbird and a rabbit. I also scared up a grouse on the trail today. There are several pine trees surrounding this spring - the only ones I’ve seen all afternoon. I’m looking out on gray mountains across the valley. The sky is clear, the sun is setting and there’s a light breeze singing in the pines. I’ve plenty of food and a flat place to camp. Tomorrows hike starts out down hill. Everything is peaceful and serene. Nothing could be better.

Today has been a long day. Skies are still sunny. Maybe I shouldn’t worry about rain here in the desert. I’ve been hiking on temporary trail all day. First thing this morning I hiked out of the mountains on a jeep trail. As I got into the valleys the wildflowers again became more numerous. I took a couple pictures of a kangaroo rat. He must have been sick because he moved very slowly and even let me pick him up.

I spent nearly all morning walking across the San Felipe Valley. The trail followed a dirt road for about 5 miles across flat grasslands and dead scrub interspersed with cactus. Then the route followed a paved roadway about 6 miles. I hit that right at midday. The breeze died and though the temperature stayed in the low 80s the noonday sun made the going rough. I tried walking a few yards off the pavement but only managed to get scratched by the scrub. There was no water available in the valley and by 2:00 I was almost dry and very thirsty. A lone building loomed miles ahead. As I got closer I also got thirstier and by the time I reached it I decided to walk in and ask for water. It turned out to be a county highway maintenance center. There was no one around but there was a big sign on a spigot advertising "drinking water". I guess a lot of hikers stop there for water. The route left the roadway shortly thereafter and ran parallel to it for a few more miles. The whole valley is grazing land. There are no fences along the roads and the cattle wander where they please. They couldn’t quite figure me out though. Every time I approached a herd they panicked and galloped into the distance. Late this afternoon I again got into a flowery valley. The trail was lined with beautiful violet lilacs and dozens of other wildflowers. For the past few hours I’ve been walking across open rangeland. The rolling hills are covered with grass and tinted with wildflowers. Occasionally a herd of cattle speckles the landscape.

Tonight I’m camped on a hill near a roadway. This too is rangeland and there’s nothing to stop a curious steer from investigating my camp. The only ones I see are miles away and there’s really no reason for them to come here with all the open land around. There’s a large pipe that comes out of the hill below the roadway and from the pipe trickles spring water. Again I have a good supply of fresh water. My camp is located above the road. There’s very little traffic. Out in the distance the rolling rangeland terminates at the shore of a good sized lake. Beyond the lake the sun is setting behind a mountain range. All around me are grasslands and beyond them mountains. Tomorrow I’ll get to Warner Springs, a couple days ahead of schedule.

I was awakened shortly before midnight last night by snorting and stamping. I groped for the flashlight and fumbled with the tent door zipper certain I was in imminent danger of being intimately examined by a bull enraged at my invasion of his territory. I panned the beam across the field and saw nothing. Apparently he decided I wasn’t worth examining because the snorting and stamping stopped and I heard no more of it. It was a gorgeous night. The sky was overflowing with stars too numerous to even think about. Out in the distance a pack of coyotes howled into the night. I went back to sleep with one ear open for the return of the bull but was not disturbed. I spent hours watching the sun go down last night. The afterglow lasted till the stars came. The sun set behind Mt. Polamar, home of the world famous observatory. I could see the observatory from my camp, a white ball sitting atop the mountain.

I hiked all day on temporary trail. I stopped at a store in Warner Springs, but it wasn’t well stocked and all I could get for pack food was macaroni and cheese. From there I hiked uphill for miles on a semi-paved road. The sun was hot but a stiff breeze kept it bearable. I stopped for lunch next to a stream in the mountains. It was the first water I’d seen all day and sure was welcome. This afternoon the trail ascended a beautiful tree lined valley. The mountainsides were strewn with huge boulders, stacked and strewn as if left behind by some gargantuan child. I regained sight of Mt. Jacinto, the snow covered mammoth to the north. I lost it yesterday when I descended into the valley. It’s lots closer now. Tonight I’m camped in Spring Canyon on a grassy knoll next to a bubbling brook. I’ve caught up with two other PCT hikers. Lynn Haxton and Barbara Taylor from Sacramento are hiking from Mexico to Oregon. They tell me there are six other PCT hikers a few days ahead. I’m sharing a campsite with them tonight and they’re feeding me dinner. Tomorrow I get into Anza and hopefully will get some mail. I got to take my first bath since I started the trail. The stream is fairly large and has several pools large enough to use as bathtubs. The water was a bit cold but it was very refreshing after a long day’s hike.

I slept under the stars last night. It got quite cold but I stayed warm. A lone coyote crying on the mountaintop woke me in the middle of the night. I did a lot of highway walking today. The route followed paved roads for miles, then evaporated. I walked 1 1/2 miles into Anza to the P. O., my first official mail stop. Fortunately I got a letter. I stopped at a grocery store in town and treated myself to a quart of Gatorade, some ham and cheese sandwiches and a small cherry pie.

The maps I’m carrying are not very detailed and are four years old. The only way I found the trail out of town was by following the footprints left in the sand on the side of the road by the dozens of PCT hikers before me. I walked on highway uphill for 4 miles under a hot sun with really no idea where I was going. At the top of the mountain I found a small restaurant, two PCT hikers and an ice-cold Coors beer. The hikers, a young couple who happen to be civil engineers, had a detailed guidebook and I got directions for the trail route from them. I set out following boot prints along the highway but took a wrong turn and lost them. I was looking for a dirt road that led into the mountains. I found one and took it, but it started going the wrong direction and besides there were no boot prints on it. So I struck out cross-country and came across a small stream, which I followed upstream. I’m now totally and blissfully lost. Actually I have a fairly good idea where I am, but it’s late and this is a good place to spend the night. I’m in a small clearing amid towering pines next to the brook. I’m right next to an old dirt road, which I suspect, will lead me where I want to go tomorrow. It’s a beautiful campsite though. There are a few low clouds in the sky and a cool breeze.

I was scheduled to be in Anza May 8. I started five days late and have already gained back 3 days. Soon I’m going to have to make an effort to slow down to avoid over running my mail stops.

I’m back on the official PCT. It took me half a day to find my way back. It turned out the footprints I was following belonged to two guys who were lost. I followed my dirt road this morning and it ended in about ¼ mile at an old gold mine shaft. High above on the mountain I saw a square shape that looked man made. I bushwhacked through some very rough scrub up the side of the mountain to reach it. The block turned out to be a mining shack. The gold mine was still operating part time. There was an air compressor parked outside and hoses running into the shaft. The dirt road continued but looked like it hadn’t been used in a while. Down in the valley I saw another dirt road that looked promising. I descended on the mine road, very steep for about 1/2 mile, and followed the other road north for 1/2 mile. It ended at still another gold mine, which had a new building and looked ready to operate. There was no one around though, only three German shepherds who barked, then made friends. I looked at my map again and decided the road I wanted lay beyond the mountain on which the second mineshaft was located. I hiked back up the mine road and continued past the mine for a few hundred yds. The road ended at an old abandoned horizontal mine shaft. Just out of curiosity I got out my flashlight and followed the shaft 100 yds. into the mountain till the floor got too mucky to go on.

I decided the thing to do was to bushwhack over the mountain. I spent about an hour scrambling over boulders and under scrub. Finally from the top I saw a dirt road on the other side. After more scrambling and scraping I emerged onto the road just in time to meet two more PCT hikers headed north. We all caught up with the couple I met at the restaurant yesterday and hiked together for part of the day. The trail has returned to 5,000 - 7,000 ft. ridge tops. On two sides the mountain drops off to valleys thousands of feet below which fade under a layer of Los Angeles smog.

Tonight I’m camped on top of the world. To my back is Splitter Peak, which I’ll be ascending tomorrow. Before me the peak I’ve just descended is catching the last rays of the setting sun. Above me a quarter moon shines through the hazy sky. To my left, lights of civilization shine up through the smog. To my right the smog smothers the hills. I’m on the ridge top above 6,000 ft. I had to bushwhack about ¼ mile down the steep side of the mountain to get water. There was no path and I scraped my legs on the scrub. But I’ve plenty of water and here I’ll catch the first rays of the morning sun if the smog dissipates. Snowy San Jacinto Peak is looming gigantically. I’ll be in the vicinity tomorrow sometime. It’ll probably be quite cold up here tonight.

It didn’t get cold last night but it did get very windy. The tent flapped and shook so hard I was afraid it was going to collapse. I got up at 5:00 this morning and took it down. It stayed very windy all morning though the sky stayed clear. Today has been a rough day and a beautiful day. All morning the trail climbed higher and higher into the mountains. The scrub and flowers were replaced by massive redwoods and spruces, several of which bore scars from fires of decades past. I missed a great picture of a deer this morning because my camera was in my pack and I couldn’t get it out in time. The trail rose above 7,000 ft. always climbing gradually. Snow clad Mt. San Jacinto loomed ever closer. The footpath traveled along rock terraces and the mountain dropped away steeply below. At times the trail was blasted into the face of a cliff. I saw 2 deer and several squirrels along with the usual lizards.

About noon the trail wound around the northeast corner of Red Tahquitx peak and disappeared under snowdrifts up to 30 ft. deep. Trail markers, where they are used, are only about 3 ft. high. Generally the pathway itself defines the route. The snow totally obliterated all signs of the trail. I took a look at my map and struck out in the direction I thought the trail would go. Fortunately the snow is old and packed and I didn’t sink in too deeply. I’d been following horse hoof prints on the trail before the snow. When I rounded the corner there was the horse tied to a tree with no one around. He must have been there overnight. I eventually found the trail again on the west side of the mountain where the snow isn’t as deep, but promptly lost it again when the route turned to the north side of another mountain. I’ve been making my own trail nearly all afternoon. The weather’s warm and the sun hot. The snow is melting so fast that footprints made yesterday are barely discernible.

Tonight I’m camped on a ridge top among the snow and pine trees. There’s plenty of water around from the melting snow and I’ve found a dry spot to pitch the tent. I’m right next to the trail, which, from now on, sticks to the west slopes of the mountains so it should be fairly easy to follow. Tomorrow I should be out of snow country. It’s pretty to look at but it’s slippery and very tiring to walk in. For the first time on this trip my boots are soaked.

I’m exhausted! Today has been a rough day. There was more snow on the trail than I expected. I spent most of the morning trying to find traces of the trail under the snow. I did quite well and managed to follow the route through the deepest snow by looking for branches of trees that had been cut and by knowing in which general direction it headed. The north sides of the mountains were worst with snow piled in drifts to 30 ft. The trail would often just disappear under a mountain of snow. I passed through a large snowy forest and managed to re-find the trail on the west slope of Mt. San Jacinto where the route was fairly clear. Then the trail switched to the north side of "the castle". The slope was very steep and buried under tens of feet of snow. The route stayed near the mountaintop and the going was treacherous. Today was very warm and by noon I was sinking to my calves with every step. My boots got so full of water it sloshed out with each stride and my feet got a continuous ice bath. Finally I gave up on trying to stay on the trail and headed down the mountain to below the snow line. I then circled the peak and regained the trail about 3:00 on a dirt road. Since then I have been going continually downhill. I passed through miles of burned out forest. All that remained were charred stumps and branches. For four hours I hiked ever downward. I left the pine forests behind and re-entered the scrub with its cactus and profusion of wildflowers.

I had hoped to be in Cabazon today. I have no more breakfast or lunch food. I skipped lunch today and can really feel it. I hope the store is open tomorrow. Tonight I’m camped next to a stream on Hurley Flats; a large flat land nestled in the hills still high above the desert floor. A large ranch occupies the land. I took a bath and did some laundry in the stream. I have everything hung out on a tree to dry.

I spent all morning walking down hill, often quite steeply. I would hate to have to climb up that way. I could see the town of Cabazon below me growing larger and closer ever so slowly. I finally reached the valley floor about 11:00. There, camped next to a river, I met three more PCT hikers. They were resting for a couple days before going on. I found out the horse I passed back in the mountains belonged to a girl who was attempting to ride the length of the PCT. Her pack horse lost its footing in the snow and tumbled over the edge. She went down after it and in the process hurt herself. She had to be hauled out by helicopter and is in the hospital. I’d sure hate to ride a horse over this trail. It’s rough to walk.

The grocery store was open and there was also a restaurant in town. Cabazon sits on Interstate 10. I treated myself to lunch of Swiss steak, potato, zucchini, salad, and a piece of home made strawberry pie a la mode for dessert. It was delicious. I bought food and left town about 1:30. The route followed the bed of the San Gorgonio River, a wide dry basin that accepts water from the mountains and gives it up to the hot desert. The bed was dry, rocky, and hot. There was a strong wind blowing at my back, cooling me and keeping me going. All the plants and scrub in the valley grow at an angle away from the wind. At 4:00 I was passing through the village of West Palm Springs. The map showed no water ahead for miles so I stopped at a house and asked for some. Instead I got invited in for dinner, a shower, and overnight accommodations. It’s good to be clean again. Tomorrow I have 4 or 5 more miles of desert walking before I head into the mountains again. My equipment is falling apart. I just noticed that the welds that hold the cross member on my pack frame are fractured. The seams that hold the bag to the frame are starting to give way also. I hope it holds together one more week till I get my Kelty. The sole on one of my boots is coming off also. I bought some glue and will try to fix it tonight.

There were a few high clouds in the sky this morning, about the first I’ve seen since I started the trip. I started the day in the San Gorgonio Valley. The cacti are beginning to bloom. Beaver tail cactus are sprouting red blossoms and Silver cholla pushing out greenish yellow petals. I shortly entered the Whitewater River valley. The route followed the river north for miles. The heavy rains of the past year caused the river to flood and wash out the entire valley. There was no sign of a path, just a jumble of sand and rock. The river itself, fed by snow melting in the mountains, wound its way back and forth across the valley. I had to cross it several times. Crossing swift rivers with a pack is probably the thing I enjoy least about backpacking. When I’m crossing the face of a cliff or high on a mountain ridge I can choose my footing and handholds carefully and guarantee myself a margin of safety should one of them give way. When wading across a swift river with a pack on my back I have to feel for footing. The bottom is often slippery and the current strong. I’m always relieved when I reach the other side. My first fall in the middle of a stream could be my last with no one within miles to pull me out. Whitewater River was about knee deep in the middle, about 8 ft. wide and quite swift. I missed the trail turnoff from the river valley and spent about an hour following my compass across a mountain ridge to regain the route.

Tonight I’m camped on the bank of Mission Creek. It’s a good-sized stream just now with the runoff from the melting snow in the mountains, but it’s not big enough to present problems in crossing. I’ve been following its canyon upstream for several miles. It’s very narrow and twisting with mountains rising steeply on either side, very pretty. I saw my first rattlesnake today. It was about 3 1/2 ft. long and lying motionless across the trail about 4 ft. away from me when I saw it. That section of trail was very narrow and I wasn’t about to try to step over it so I backed off and pitched a few pebbles at it to get it to move. It grudgingly did so, shaking its tail at me all the way.

All day I walked uphill following Mission Creek to its very source on the northern slope of San Gorgonio Mtn. I’ve climbed from 2,000 ft. yesterday morning to well over 8,000 ft. this afternoon. The trail, which paralleled the creek, was at times badly washed out. I saw two more snakes today, neither of them rattlers. One was brownish and the other had black, white, and red rings the length of its body. I also saw a hummingbird. Yesterday morning I saw my first roadrunner.

I’ve again left the cactus and flowers behind and climbed into the pine forest. Tonight I’m camped on a bed of pine needles beneath several towering trees. Out in the distance between the trees I can see the snow clad summit of San Gorgonio Mt. Fortunately the trail stayed on the south slope out of the snow. I could see snow beneath me across a gully on the north slope of the ridge. The trail crisscrossed Mission Creek several times. I always managed to walk across on a fallen log that spanned the river.

I made pancakes for breakfast this morning for a change. They were really good. Tonight on the menu is rice with Vienna sausage, soup, bread, and vanilla pudding for dessert. If the trail isn’t too rough I should be in Big Bear City late tomorrow. There should be some downhill tomorrow.

Today was a cold day. It started out below freezing this morning and a brisk wind made it feel all the colder. The trail continued upward for about 3 miles before beginning a gradual descent. There was fresh ice and some old snow along the route. It didn’t start warming up till I got below the 8,000 ft. level. Then the wind eased and the sun took over, but it stayed cool all day and it’s getting cold again. Most of the trail I hiked on was fairly new. It didn’t go through Big Bear City as I expected it to. Instead it made a big loop clear of the town. Tonight I’m camped next to a dirt road that leads 3 miles into town. Tomorrow I walk down to get groceries. I’m nearly out of food.

The trail was very well built and went through some beautiful country. For a time I traveled among pinecones and pine needles under stately spruces and pines. There was also a section that led through an area that was burned over several years ago. It was devoid of trees, sandy and desolate. There was very little water along the route. I hiked for an hour past my normal quitting time to find water. The last spring I passed at 10:00 this morning. I finally found a small stream. It doesn’t taste too good but it’ll do. I haven’t seen anybody in three days. I’m looking forward to going into town tomorrow.

It was cold this morning. The thermometer said 22 when I got up at 5:30 and it didn’t warm up any by the time I got moving at 7:00. The walk to town was shorter than I expected. It only took me an hour to get to the grocery store. There was a Laundromat next door so I washed all my clothes for the first time on this trip. I smell like Tide again. I was hungry when I went shopping and bought all kinds of food. My pack is really weighty. All day long I’ve been regretting my purchases, but tonight I’m going to feast. Before I left town I ate 6 bananas, an orange, two honey pies, an ice cream sandwich, and four bologna and tomato sandwiches. Also a pound of bean salad, a pint of chocolate milk and a quart of orange juice. I left town about 11:00 and was back on the trail by 12:20. I hiked for about 3 hours on recently constructed beautiful trail. It remained at a fairly constant altitude as it wound its way through pine forests. Any climbing or descending was very gradual. The new trail wasn’t shown in my map book, which showed the temporary route along forest roads. The route stayed near the mountaintops and crossed an occasional patch of snow, just enough to provide a treat for a dry mouth. The weather was pleasant, in the 70s.

Suddenly, about 3:30, the trail ended. It just stopped in the middle of nowhere - no warning, no directions. The beautiful graded trail just ended. Beyond, the forest looked as if no man had ever trod on it. I did a bit of dead reckoning, looked at my map, consulted my compass and set out cross-country toward where I concluded the temporary route should be. Soon I came across an old logging road, which soon led to a forest road, which led to the road indicated as the trail route on my map. There are no PCT markers but the road heads in the right direction and is as good a route as any. Tonight I’m camped near Dry Spring, which fortunately isn’t, at an altitude of 7,200 ft. I’m surrounded by a pine forest with birds singing and a gentle breeze whispering among the branches. I’m going to do what I can to lighten my load at dinner tonight. I must be right under the approach route for the L.A. airport. There are all kinds of jets passing overhead.

It was cold again this morning, down to about 25. I hiked on forest service roads for a while, and then picked up the permanent PCT again. All day long I hiked gradually down hill following Deep Creek from its source in the mountains out toward the desert. As I gradually lost altitude I left behind the pine forests where winter was just losing her grip and descended into the realm of spring. Woodland wildflowers once again lined my path and the pines were gradually replaced by oaks and other deciduous trees. Walking was very enjoyable on recently constructed trail, which clung to the steep canyon side a hundred feet or more above the riverbed. The water roared and hissed as it twisted its way over rocks and around corners.

I got a hot bath and shower late this afternoon compliments of Mother Nature. There’s a hot spring beside the trail, which feeds water over a small falls and into a large pool. The water was hot, but not too hot to bathe in. The pool emptied into the ice-cold river I’ve been following from snow country. I soaked in the hot water, then took a dip in the ice water, then back to the hot. Unfortunately, this place was quite well known and there were about a dozen other people there, lots of garbage, and ecology can brought in by the Forest Service. I had considered camping there when I spotted the hot spring on my map, but with the crowd and garbage I decided to move on.

I’m camped on a little trailside grassy patch next to a stream that empties into the river. I’m at the canyon bottom so the sun won’t get here till late tomorrow. I hope it’s not too cold tonight. I’ve walked through several swarms of ladybugs today. I don’t know where they’re all going.

Last night was the warmest one I’ve had in a while. The temperature stayed above 50. My campsite was overrun by ants though. I made some strawberry Jell-O last night and left it in the stream to cool. During the night some animal found it, probably a raccoon. I got up this morning anticipating the treat and found only the empty container. I hope he enjoyed it. I’ll try some more tonight.

Hiking out of Deep Creek Canyon was not so nice. The trail was well used. It was often lined with a concrete wall and occasionally had a concrete walkway. Graffiti often stained the rocks and beer cans and bottles littered the path. I crossed the creek on a wood and steel arch bridge built by the Forest Service. It wasn’t exactly the wilderness experience I’ve been seeking.

I spent most of the morning walking temporary trail on roads. About 1:00 this afternoon, as I was trudging along the highway, I spotted a cut in the mountainside that looked like it could be the trail. I bushwhacked my way to it and found a new section of the PCT. It was so new it was still under construction and workman’s tools and gloves were just where they had left them at quitting time yesterday.

I followed the route all afternoon. About 4:00 the land suddenly dropped away ahead of me and a haze shrouded valley opened. Beyond, far in the distance, several snow capped peaks rose majestically to the heavens. Unfortunately, it was too hazy for me to get any good pictures. The trail, which is not well marked, descended into the valley. I met a troop of Boy Scouts just before I stopped to camp. I’m going to pay their camp a visit tonight. I’m camped beside an old Mormon roadway that has been almost completely washed out. A little spring provided me with all the water I’ll need. Interstate 15 is about a mile away. I’ll probably be crossing it tomorrow and will probably be outside Wrightwood tomorrow night waiting for the P.O. to open Monday morning.

I saw a baby rattler coiled up in the sand on the trail this morning. I bothered it with a stick and it put on a good show. It didn’t have a developed rattle yet but it coiled and struck like a grownup.

I had a good time with the Scouts last night. They fed me dinner of hamburgers and celery. Afterwards I sat around the charcoal grill with the troop leaders and shared homemade chocolate chip cookies, good spirits, good music, and good conversation with them. This morning they gave me a breakfast of French toast and bacon, loaded me up with cookies and gorp and sent me on my way with a full stomach and a pack full of goodies. I also got a banana and a pear from one of the troop leaders. The troop was out for a little camping and some trail work. The rangers supply the Scouts with tools to clear debris from the trail.

The valley I entered yesterday was Cajon Pass, a route with historical significance. The Mormons built a road through the pass and paved it in the late 1800’s. The original roadbed can still be seen in many places. The site is the mountain crossing point of the Old Spanish Trail or Santa Fe Trail. I left the pass about 9:00 this morning and have been climbing all day. The trail never climbed very steeply, but steadily wound its way up the ridge via multiple switchbacks some over a mile long. The path was once again lined with wildflowers. As I gained altitude wild lilac and sweet pea began to appear trailside. I climbed and climbed all day.

It seems a favorite weekend pastime of people around here is to drive into the mountains with a jeep or pickup with rifles and shotguns and proceed to blast away at everything is sight, especially trail signs and markers. Gunshots echoed through the canyons all day long. Tonight I’m camped atop Wright Mtn. There’s a full moon tonight. Down in the valley below I can see the cars on I15 winding through the pass. I can also see Mt. San Gorgonio in the distance and the Mojave Desert to the north. It’s very windy here. I was hoping it would die down when the sun went down, but it seems to be picking up instead. I’m not going to bother trying to cook dinner. I’m not very hungry anyway.

I’m camped tonight about 2 miles from where I was last night. I spent nearly all day in Wrightwood. I walked about 1/2 mile too far on the PCT and missed the side trail to town. I went down a mini glacier in a valley. It was steep and slow going. I ended up on a road 1 1/2 miles west of town and had to walk back. My Kelty pack was waiting at the P.O. It sure is good to have it. I shipped my old one home. I also got several letters and spent part of the day writing answers. I made some bologna and tomato sandwiches for lunch and then went shopping. I bought enough groceries to last at least a week so I won’t get caught by the holiday next weekend. The extent of my purchases was influenced by hiker’s hunger and it was a heavy pack I hauled back up the mountain. I met another PCT hiker in town and followed his tracks up the trail back to the top of Blue Ridge. I’m back amid the snowdrifts. It’s still very windy up here but I’ve chosen my campsite a bit better and am better sheltered by pine trees and snowdrifts. It only got down to 50 last night but it’s now already 30. It feels like it’s going to be cold and all this snow around doesn’t help.

I couldn’t get the stove going for breakfast this morning and ended up having bread and butter and an orange. I hiked for a while this morning with the hiker I met in Wrightwood, a guy from Maine also shooting for Canada. I walked all morning along the top of Blue Ridge. About 12:00 I descended to Vincent Gap, alt. 6550 ft. From there the trail climbed Mt. Baden Powell, alt. 9399 ft. As usual the trail disappeared at the snow line. I decided to go straight up. I kicked steps into the snow and worked my way to the top in about 3 1/2 hours. I’ve been walking in snow along the ridge at about 8,500 ft. I’ve pitched my tent on the only patch of bare ground around and am melting snow for water. I took the stove apart at noon and cleaned it and it seems to be working well. I’ve got another half day of walking on snow tomorrow before I’m out of it for a while. My boots are soaked and I’m sure they won’t dry tonight. It’s going to be cold. At least I’ll have a hot dinner.

As I walked the ridge I had angry clouds below me to my left, swirling and dashing themselves against the mountain trying to get through. To my right the Mojave Desert stretched to the horizon under hazy skies. Ahead and behind me stretched the snowy ridge. I got precipitated on a bit today. As I descended Vincent Gap the clouds were able to flow over the ridge. The moisture precipitated on the pine trees and the breeze blew it down. It rained every time I walked under a tree.

To the east from my tent I can see the snow capped summit of Old Baldy. I should be able to get some good pictures with the moonrise tonight if the clouds stay down. Coming down off Mt. Baden Powell I did a bit of skiing on my boot bottoms. I would have enjoyed it more if I didn’t have a pack on my back, but it was more fun than going up anyway. I found a Sierra cup while climbing Mt. Baden Powell.

The temperature on the mountain was 18 this morning. I managed to get thawed out and moving by 8:00. By 11:00 I was pretty much out of the snow. I found an orange sitting on the snow, peel unbroken. It must have been dropped by another hiker. It made a good mid morning snack. My boots were frozen this morning as expected and I had to cram them on. They’re fairly dry tonight and I’m going to try to glue the loose heel. For most of the afternoon I walked in a beautiful canyon following a river down stream, then turned and followed another creek upstream. The canyon sides were lined with pine and oak and cedar. The trail was in rough shape, very worn and narrow in places and blocked or washed out in others. It’s all staked out and I think due for rebuilding.

I planned to take it easy today. I started late and planned to quit early when I reached a campground located along the trail. About a mile from the campground I took a wrong turn and went 2 miles up the wrong trail before I realized my error. There are several forks in the trail and no signs. I backtracked and got on the right trail but it was 6:30 before I got to the campsite. I’ve got this place all to myself though. There are several picnic tables and fireplaces. It’s nice to be able to sit at a table for a change. The temperature is down to 48 now. I’m sure it won’t be as cold as last night.

It was 22 when I got up this morning, hardly warmer than the mountaintop. I walked all day on good trail. There was nothing spectacular to be seen. I’m once more in semi-arid mountains. The path is lined with sparse pine trees at the higher elevations and scrub growth at the lower elevations. The trail wound its way in and out of valleys and around ridges. It was kind of monotonous going.

The weather has been rather cool the past few days. I think it’s due to a weather system affecting the area rather than my altitude. Skies were partly cloudy and hazy all day. Tonight I’m camped right next to a small brook near the trail. I’m actually in the washbasin of the brook. The trail has been slabbing steep mountainsides and this is about the only flat spot around. So long as we don’t have a downpour tonight I’ll be fine. Otherwise I may get washed away.

Another PCT hiker, a guy from Wisconsin on his way from Campo to the Oregon line, has just joined me. He’s hitched more than he’s hiked so I’m not taking him too seriously.

It got down to 35 last night. I’ll be glad to leave the mountains. The cold makes getting up hard and doing anything at the day’s end uncomfortable. The trail this morning was very pleasant, lined with pines but also with green grass and flowers. There are a lot of deer tracks on the trail but I haven’t seen any deer recently. I stopped for lunch atop 5930 ft. Mt. Gleason. Then I spent all afternoon descending to the valley floor. I could see my destination from the top and if I had wings I could have soared down in ten minutes. Instead it took me four hours. As I lost altitude the wildflowers again began to appear. Many are ones I’ve seen before but there are a few new ones.

I’m camped among the scrub a couple miles outside Acton. I’ll stop at the Post Office tomorrow for stamps and at the grocery store for bread and butter. In two days I’ll be in Lake Hughes, my jumping off point for the trip across the Mojave.

I heard an owl hooting above my tent early this morning. Tonight should be deliciously warm compared to what I’ve had the past couple days.

Today has been a long day. It started off well enough. I got into Acton by 8:00 and stuffed myself with junk food at the grocery store. I also got a quart of milk, three oranges, four bananas and some doughnuts, all of which I ate before leaving town. When I did leave I took the wrong road and walked uphill a couple miles before I came to a dead end. Rather than walk all the way back down I cut cross-country about 1 1/2 miles to the correct road. I walked for several miles on paved roads, temporary route. Then I turned up a dirt road that my map indicated would take me back to the permanent trail. In about 1/2 mile I came to an open gate with signs "Passage by permission only", "Local traffic only", and "Dangerous Bulls, No Horses, No Hikers". I checked my map for an alternate route but couldn’t find one. Since the gate was open and there had obviously been no bulls around for a while I decided to chance a passage. In about 2 miles I came to a closed gate with "Private Property" and "No Trespassing" signs. A fence stretched out on either side of the gate. High above me on my left I could see the trail. It had been constructed only as far as the fence and stretched out ahead of me. I climbed the hillside, crossed the fence and once more was on the good old official PCT.

All afternoon I climbed through dry mountains. The terrain resembled that which I encountered at the very beginning of the trail, except now it’s hotter and dryer. I didn’t pass any water all day long. Late this afternoon I took a couple salt tablets with water I’d been carrying all day. That was a mistake. The warm water dissolved the tablets too quickly and I was nauseous for a while.

The spring I’d planned to stop at for the night was dry and I had to push on another couple miles. Fortunately by this time I had crossed the crest and was walking downhill. I finally came to a small valley with lush green vegetation. But the brook was dry where the trail crossed it. I walked several hundred feet downstream and was greeted by the melodious bubbling of running water. Never was a sound more welcome. I still had some water, but not enough to make it through the night and I wasn’t sure what I’d do if I didn’t find any. The stream had plenty of nice cool water. Tonight I’m camped under a tree near the streambed. It’s raining caterpillars or seeds or something. There are plenty of songbirds around and a hummingbird keeps looking me over. Unfortunately there are also a lot of bugs. My insect repellent is keeping them away though. I picked some dandelion greens and am going to boil them and try them tonight. I really could use some fresh green vegetables. I saw the trail ahead from the mountaintop. It descends to the valley, and then climbs the mountain across from where I am now. I guess I’ll be doing some climbing again tomorrow.

Today got off to a beautiful start. I awoke to the singing of dozens of different songbirds. It was fairly warm out - 40 - and getting up was no problem. I had a good breakfast of Jell-O, hot chocolate, bread and butter, and oatmeal. It was too cool for insects but the caterpillars kept raining down. Hiking today was generally good though quite monotonous. Sometimes the trail was lined with some kind of vine that occasionally bore a fist sized spiny fruit. I broke one open and inside was a lot of juice and several large bean like seeds. I wonder if they’re edible. Sometimes the path was covered with vegetation, but more often it was hot, dry and sandy. The sand heated up in the intense sun and reflected the heat back so that it often felt as if I was walking in an oven.

The route crossed several brooks and when it did the vegetation was very plush. Elephant grass, weeds, and flowers competed for water with leafy green trees. Along streams is the only place I’ve seen trees the past few days. Everything is covered with scrub. I left the permanent route of the PCT late this afternoon. For the next week I’ll be following temporary trail, much of it through desert. I’ll get into Lake Hughes early tomorrow morning and spend the day resting before hiking out late tomorrow. I’m going to try some night hiking in the desert. Tonight I’m camped between a dirt road and a brook. I just took a long overdue bath and washed some clothes. It’s been too cold lately to really take a bath. I’ll be clean when I get into town tomorrow. I haven’t looked in a mirror in two weeks and I’m rather curious to see what I look like. The end of my nose is still peeling from the bad burn it got. Again tonight I’ll pitch the tent on grass among the trees. The flies here are also bad but I guess I can live with them.

I got into Lake Hughes early this morning and spent all day lounging around town, writing my report for the Sampler and finishing several letters. I took advantage of the local grocery stores and filled up of OJ, fruit, and junk food. About 6:30 I loaded my pack with two gallons of water and prepared to leave town. There was another PCT hiker in town, a guy I met in Acton two days ago. He told me he checked with rangers in the High Sierras and Mono Hot Springs, where I asked Ann to mail my boots, was buried in deep snow and wouldn’t be open till mid July. I called Ann before I left and arranged for an alternate Post Office. It was good to talk to her. I’ve had no news from home since I started this trip. She’s mailed me a couple letters but for some reason I never got them. I’ve left forwarding addresses at all my P.O. stops so they should eventually catch me.

I climbed out of town in the last rays of the setting sun and descended from the ridge to the desert floor while it was still light. As it got dark I had a bit of trouble finding the right road, but finally established myself on the correct route. For a while a silver owl hovered above me, riding the breeze and following my progress. As the last light faded the owl disappeared. The sky was crystal clear and star studded. All around on the horizon light twinkled from settlements tens of miles away. To the east the sea of lights that make up Lancaster and Palmdale seemed only a few miles away. Actually they were more than 15. The route followed an arrow straight roadway directly north. I could barely see the road surface. I walked ever towards the North Star. Stars set in the west and new ones rose in the east. Because the earthly lights were so far away I seemed to be drawing no nearer to them than I was to the stars. The sensation was one of walking on a treadmill, always moving, getting nowhere. It was not a pleasant sensation for a backpacker trying to gain miles across the desert before the heat of the day. At times there was no sound except my own footsteps, the creak of my pack and the whistling of the breeze. Other times the silence was broken by the hoot of an owl or the chirping of crickets. For many miles the roadside was empty. Somewhere along the route I began to hear a different sound, a rhythmic clicking and hissing. I nearly got doused before I realized it was the sound of irrigation sprinklers. This part of the desert was cultivated and was being watered by night.

Eventually the cultivated fields were replaced by acres of towering cactus, which presented spiny silhouettes against the night sky and provided me with a way to gauge my progress. Two or three times a car approached me. I’d see a single bright light ahead in the distance. It flickered and wavered never seeming to grow brighter, always seeming too bright to be a set of headlights. After several minutes the light would resolve itself into two headlights and the hum of the engine would become audible. A minute or so later the car would pass and fade into the darkness behind me.

I stopped for lunch at midnight and got three hours of sleep before setting out again. Soon the paved road took a sharp turn to the east. My map indicated the trail turned northeast onto a dirt road. I couldn’t find it in the half-light of the recently risen moon. There were roads going north and east but none going northeast. These trails are made by off road vehicles and the desert is crisscrossed with them. I followed a road north for a while, then took one headed east for a while. Eventually I found myself on the right road.

Back on the highway I found I could pass the time and miles by counting telephone poles that were visible against the sky. It made the going easier. I also watched the Big Dipper rotate around the North Star, starting off upside down and eventually righting itself by daybreak. Ever so slowly the eastern sky began to brighten. I quit hiking when the sun got hot about 8:00. I’ve pitched the tent for shade, but it’s too hot inside. The temperature is 98 but there’s a slight breeze that makes it more bearable. I’m lying in the semi-shade of the desert vegetation waiting for the sun to go down again so I can resume walking. I still have plenty of water and with luck will reach Mojave tomorrow morning.

I got hot this afternoon. The temp. Climbed to 100 and there was little shade from the noonday sun. I had the tent pitched but it was like an oven inside. A strong gust of wind blew it down about 3:30 and I was just too hot to put it back up. I crawled into the shade of a cactus plant and suffered. All my water was at air temp, not very refreshing. There wasn’t a thing I could do to get cooler. Finally, about 5:00, I packed up and started walking. The temperature dropped below 90 and, though the sun was still hot, it was at my back and my pack shaded me. I reached the aqueduct shortly. It’s buried underground and the trail follows a dirt road on top of it. Every mile along the route there’s a square concrete cistern that gives access to the water below. I could hear the water sloshing and gurgling. The cisterns are covered by a hinged steel door, which is padlocked shut. I could raise the hatch a couple inches before the lock stopped it and peeking in I could see the water about 4 ft. below. That’s nice cool clean drinking water. Here I was in the hot desert with a half-gallon of 100 water that I had to ration so it would last.

The aqueduct was too tempting and I wasn’t going to leave without attempting to get some of the water. I carry a long cord by which I hang my food bag at night out of the reach of animals. I tied a bandanna on one end, pushed it through the opening and let if fall into the water. However, not much water was obtainable this way, and since the bandanna was not particularly clean to begin with the water had an odd taste. Another method was definitely needed. I carry my food in plastic zip lock bags. I took one, poked a hole near the top for the string, placed several small stones inside and dropped it through the crack into the water. When I pulled it out the space between the rocks was filled with cool sparkling water. With a little practice I was able to retrieve a cup and a half with each dip. For the next 30 miles or so I’ll have a source of drinking water every mile complements of LA water dept. I’m sure they’ll never miss it. I hiked till about 10:00. By that time I was opposite the city of Mojave where I plan to spend the day tomorrow. I didn’t bother to pitch the tent, just unrolled the sleeping bag and crawled in. The number of stars visible is absolutely incredible.

I got up at 5:00 this morning and walked the rest of the way to Mojave. I got to town about 7:00 and treated myself to breakfast at McDonalds. It’s the first time I’ve had eggs for breakfast since I started this trip. Mojave is a pretty big town and I should be able to get my clothes washed and buy some food. It’s lots better than spending the day in the desert.

Evening - I got my laundry done in Mojave. I also bought a head of lettuce, a pound of cherry tomatoes, and a bottle of salad dressing and spent the afternoon eating salad. I packed a bunch of carrots for munching on the trail. I left town about 5:30 and reached the aqueduct by 7:00. On the way out I passed "Aqueduct City", a grid laid out in the desert. There were street signs at every corner and streets and avenues had been bulldozed into the chaparral. This had been done several years ago and grass had reclaimed the roadway. The avenues stretched out to the horizon. Someday there may be a city there. I sure wouldn’t want to live in it.

The aqueduct is actually two aqueducts. I walked along the older one this evening. Every mile or so there was an 8" round inspection port. I could lift off the cover and dip a cup into the water. This method was quicker and easier than the one I devised but I didn’t get the same satisfaction from it. The aqueduct left the desert floor and climbed high onto the ridge. Below me I could see the lights of vehicles on Highway 58 and also Edwards Air Force Base. Then the aqueduct dropped back off the ridge. It was now a pipeline of pressurized water and there was no access. The road twisted and turned and climbed up and down, making the walk in the dark interesting. I hiked till 11:30 and then quit for a few hours sleep.

I started moving again about 3:30 this morning. By 7:00 I was in Jawbone Canyon where the route leaves the aqueduct. My flat land walking is over. I borrowed a guidebook a while ago and copied out mileages. Either the figures in the book are inflated or I’m moving exceptionally fast. According to the book I walked 24 miles in 9 hours. I stopped for a breakfast of pancakes at the point where the aqueduct crosses Jawbone Canyon. There’s a faucet providing unlimited water there. The aqueduct comes down into the valley, dropping several hundred feet and then climbs up the other canyon wall. As I sat there I could hear rocks rolling down the pipeline. They’d start at the top and slowly bump their way down.

I stopped in a small cave about 10:00 and got a couple hours sleep and waited out the midday sun. The temperature was only about 85 so I started moving at 2:00, moving up the canyon. I found a spring about 3 miles later, the first natural source of water I’ve seen in 4 days.

Somewhere I took a wrong turn and now I’m lost in the desert. I borrowed a guidebook a while back and looked up the trail route in this area. It wasn’t the same route as on my map and I didn’t even have the map that covered the area traversed. I ended up lost in the desert at the top of the canyon. I decided I was too far west so I struck out east, utilizing jeep trails when they were convenient, going cross-country otherwise. I had to cross several ridges, all dry. Finally I found a canyon descending westward and started following it. There are lots of jeep and motorcycle tracks on it. Tonight I’m camped alongside it and tomorrow I hope it will lead me to the road I’m looking for or at least to some water. The weather is much cooler and I’m going back to hiking days.

I skipped breakfast this morning because I was almost out of water. I hiked for about an hour then ran into a dirt road that I followed for another half hour. Then I ran into the road I’d been looking for, a spring, and a river. I haven’t seen this much water in a long time. Today was fairly cool, in the low 80. I hiked all day long on paved roads in the hot sun. My feet are blistered again from all the paved roads. I reached Weldon early this afternoon, a day ahead of schedule.

Last night I heard the coyotes howling again. I’ve been walking on loose sand in the canyons. It’s like walking on the beach, very tiring. From here I head into the mountains. I’m looking to the next few weeks with some trepidation. I’ve been hearing of uncrossable flooded rivers and deep snow. Hikers ahead of me are packing snowshoes and crampons. I don’t really think I’ll have trouble. I may have to adjust my schedule to hike in the early morning and late evening when the snow is frozen. I guess I won’t know till I get there. I’m going to spend a couple days resting before I start up again. I have to buy supplies for the weeks ahead. I can use a rest after the desert. When I reached the road this morning I celebrated with a big bowl of oatmeal and two cups of hot chocolate. I’ll be eating well the next couple days.

I’ve made a major change in plans. I’m skipping north 500 miles to the other side of the High Sierras. There was a notice from the Forest Service in Weldon advising that the PCT was impassable and suggesting that hikers walk up route 395 instead. Some hikers are heading into the mountains with snowshoes, crampons, and ice axes. Reports of deep snow and uncrossable rain swollen rivers are filtering back. The trail for the next 300 miles is buried under the snow and unfollowable. If I had the proper equipment I might struggle through in 6 to 8 weeks instead of the three I’d planned. It would be not only foolish, but also dangerous for me to try it alone, especially since I don’t have the proper equipment.

I walked 2.5 miles down the highway from Weldon to a KOA campground last night. There I met two other hikers who had planned to go into the mountains. One had hiked all the way from the Mexican border and the other had driven in to join him for the Sierras. Both are named Jeff. The one who drove in has hiked the Sierras several times before. He came with full winter gear, snowshoes etc. to try to convince his friend not to try the passage in the snow. He convinced him and me also and offered me a ride to Belden about 500 miles north. It’s an offer I couldn’t refuse. I’ll return to Weldon from the Oregon - Washington state line near the end of July to walk the Sierras when there’s less snow. I’ll be able to see them in their full splendor, instead of struggling though them. I’ll be able to walk the trail instead of detouring and guessing where the trail is under the snow.

We left Weldon about 2:00 and drove up Rte. 395 through Owens Valley all afternoon. I rode with one of the other hikers in the back of a Datsun pickup. To the west the High Sierras rose majestically from the valley floor. There was plenty of snow on the east side of the mountains and would be even more on the western slopes where the trail passes. The scenery was breath taking as we drove along the range, gradually gaining altitude till we were above the 8,000 ft. mark. Tonight we’re camped in a Forest Service campground not far from Mammoth Lakes, a town I’d hoped to hike into in 3 weeks. All the ski lifts are still operating there. I’m glad I’m not out in the snow.

I started out the day with a dip in Hot Creek. There’s an ice-cold river near Mammoth Lake into which empties scalding hot springs. The resulting water ranges from warm to cold. We drove in early this morning for a soak. Because the snow runoff is excessive the Creek was cooler than normal. As I sat in the water warm and cold water would alternately wash over me. We left the creek about 9:00 and moved on up the highway. Gradually we left the snow covered Sierras behind, swinging over the Nevada state line for a while, then returning to California. As we drove north, then west the terrain began to change. The desert, which I’ve been walking through since the start of the trip, was replaced by pine forest, thick and luxurious, with rivers in the canyons and plenty of green leafy vegetation. I’m back into the kind of country I enjoy. We got to Belden about 4:30 this afternoon. The town is a tiny one with restaurant, store and Post Office all rolled into one small building. Tonight we’re camped near a river a short distance from the town. I’ll get started hiking again tomorrow morning. I’m now in mosquito country. The air is full of them so I’m using plenty of insect repellent. One of the other hikers is continuing north as I am. The other is returning home for about 8 weeks, then they’ll rejoin in Weldon to hike the Sierras. The one who’s returning home came supplied with enough food for several weeks. Since he won’t be using it he’s letting me buy whatever I want from him. My pack is stuffed with all kinds of goodies I never tried before - granola bars, carnation instant breakfast bars, meat bars, several freeze dried dinners and several bags of vegetable protein meat substitute. I’m loaded with more than I need but I couldn’t resist some of the food. I got it at a bargain price too, much less than I’d pay for the same amount of food anywhere along the trail. I’m going to enjoy hiking this part of the country.

My efforts to avoid the snow have not been completely successful. I got off to a late start this morning starting about 10:30. The vegetation here is very different from what I’ve been hiking through for the past month. The trail here is beautiful. The mountains are covered with pine and cedar as well as with oak, maple and other hardwoods. The trail is shaded and carpeted with pine needles and leaves. All day I hiked uphill following Chips Creek to its source. Most of the afternoon I walked through beautiful forests. I saw a deer and several squirrels. After all that desert walking I really enjoyed the woodlands. It was magnificent. Several streams crossed the trail and grass and flowers grew abundantly. Late in the afternoon I ran into snow. For the past two hours I’ve been slogging through it. For a while I followed PCT markers nailed to trees, but I finally lost the trail. I’m camped tonight in the snow near the mountaintop. It’s incredibly warm up here - in the 70s. I’m not going to pitch the tent. I’ll sleep on my sportsman blanket. If I go due north from here tomorrow I should run into the trail again. I’m at about 6,500 ft. and the snow is several feet deep. Hopefully I’ll be out of it tomorrow at least for a while. The pines here on the mountain have beautiful moss growing on their bark

I walked in the snow nearly all day today. The depth ranged from 6 to 30 feet. The weather’s been very warm and it’s melting fast. I navigated by map and compass this morning. Parts of the trail here are marked with metal diamonds nailed to trees, but the markers are not as close together as needed and are often totally absent. Two or three times this morning I picked up the trail only to lose it again. The snow is solid enough to walk on without sinking too deeply but it is often badly drifted. To walk 30 ft. of level trail I often had to climb 3 or 4 10 ft. drifts. Hiking is very slow and tiring. I had a bit better luck following the trail this afternoon. A good length of it was marked and I managed to find the rest by following trees whose branches had been trimmed when the trail was built. Sometimes the going was very rough. Many trees are down in the snow, either broken off or bent over and buried. Often the route was totally blocked.

Late this afternoon I got out of the snow for a bit. The route wound around blocks of lava standing in all kinds of shapes. I’m camped on dry ground above 7,000 ft. among the lava tonight. It’s still very warm. Far in the distance snowy Mt. Lassen rises against the horizon. I’ve gotten some good pictures. There’s lots of wild onion growing here. I’ll use some for dinner. Tomorrow it’s back into snow, at least for a while.

Today has been another warm sunny day. I started out walking on deep snow with occasional patches of bare ground. These mountains are full of deer, I’ve seen several and their tracks are everywhere. I even managed to get a picture of one. The forests through which the trail passes are beautiful. Pine and cedar trees, many over a hundred feet tall cover the slopes and blanket the ground with a layer of needles. About 11:00 this morning I left the official PCT and started down a trail that is the temporary route. I followed blazed trees marking the trail, which was completely buried in the snow. By noon I had left the snow behind. I ate lunch next to Carter Meadow, which was more swamp than meadow from all the runoff from the snow. It was beautifully green though.

Most of the afternoon I’ve been walking on roads, first about 7 miles of dirt road, then 3 or 4 miles of paved highway. While I don’t enjoy hiking on pavement it is nice to get out of the snow. I’ll also be walking on roads nearly all day tomorrow. Sometime tomorrow afternoon I should enter Lassen Volcanic State Park. Tonight I’m staying at a Forest Service campground on highway 89 which I’ve been walking. There’s no water here temporarily so it’s open for free. I got water from a spring across the highway. Tonight I have the luxury of a picnic table upon which to cook and write. There are a few other campers here but the place is pretty empty and quiet.

I’m sorry I stayed at that campground last night. Things got a bit noisy. The kids in the next site started shouting and the couple across the road started fighting. There were several places just down the road I could have camped.

I walked on pavement for about 1 1/2 hours then on dirt road for the rest of the morning. The scenery is fantastic. Beautiful pines occasionally replaced by lush green meadows. Many of the pines are covered with bright green moss. The meadows are abloom with dandelions and buttercups. I stopped at Wilson Lake midmorning to watch a family of geese. Mama goose led the way followed by five little geese. Papa goose brought up the rear. Dozens of birds provided music and an eagle’s eerie cry echoed in the valley. I saw several more deer. Late this morning I was walking past the Stump Ranch when Barbara Frost hailed me from the porch. She invited me in for a beer and to sign her register. I had the distinction of being the first PCT hiker of the year to sign. All those who started ahead of me are still in the Sierras. Mrs. Frost, who lives at the ranch with her husband Fred, extended the invitation to include lunch, which I thoroughly enjoyed.

Early this afternoon I was back on the official PCT walking through gorgeous pine forests. By mid afternoon I was walking across patches of snow and soon lost the trail entirely. I navigated by compass the last four miles. Tonight I’m staying at Warner Valley Campground. It’s on the north side of the valley so there are several bare spots. I’m all alone; the campground isn’t even open yet because of the snow. It’s been another very warm day. This part of the country is experiencing a heat wave. That’s good - all this snow’s melting. There are several hot springs and a geyser near here. I can smell the sulfur in the air. I crossed snow melt-swollen Hot Springs Creek on a massive log felled by the winter storms.

Today started off badly but finished quite well. I climbed out of Warner Valley on dry trail, and then lost the route on snow-covered Flatiron Ridge. I followed my compass to Kings Creek and managed to cross the rain-swollen river on a semi-submerged log. I couldn’t find the trail on the other side. Moreover my right knee began to ache. It did the same thing for a while on the Appalachian Trail. I spent all morning bushwhacking up Pilot Mountain. I scrambled through scrub and brush and finally reached snow again. About 12:30 I finally refound the trail under 6 ft. of snow. I promptly lost it again and went back to navigating by compass. My knee was still hurting, but not as badly. Finally about 2:30 I reached ice and snow bound Lower Twin Lake. I followed the outlet stream for a couple miles. Gradually the snow began to disappear until I left the stream and followed an almost snow free wood road. It was beautiful walking. The way was nearly level, shaded by tall pines and snow free. I still had to occasionally cross a patch of snow, but it really felt good to be able to walk on a nice trail without having to worry about getting lost. Tonight I’m camped among the pines. There’s only a little snow in sight. I didn’t like the looks of the water where I’d planned to camp so I’m melting snow. I’m nearly out of Lassen Park and also nearly out of the snow permanently I hope. My knee stopped hurting when I got out of the snow. I’m looking forward to some good trail walking.

For the first time since I started this trip I awoke under overcast skies and for a while it looked like it might rain. But by midmorning the clouds had broken up and this afternoon the sun predominated. I crossed a patch or two of snow early this morning, then left it all behind. Except for one long climb I’ve been walking on near level ridge top all day. Generally it’s been very pleasant going, with the path shaded by pines and occasionally decorated with wildflowers. I got an early start and hiked steadily all day, covering a lot of miles in the process. In fact I hiked farther than I planned to. Somehow I missed a side trail to Porcupine Reservoir where I’d planned to camp tonight. I didn’t realize it until I reached a fire tower several miles later. There’s no water on the next 12 miles of trail and I didn’t have enough for the night. The tower was unoccupied and locked but there was a sign indicating a well in 2 miles. I left my pack behind and started down the road with my 1 1/2 gallon water jug. It was more like 3 miles before I found the well and then I had to remove a dead chipmunk. I got my water and am treating it before use. I got back in time to watch the sun go down. There’s a picnic table here next to the tower. I’m camping on it. Tomorrow starts with 12 more miles of ridge walking. The path stays near the edge of the ridge, which drops sharply away. The view to the west is excellent. I can see snowy Mt. Shasta on the horizon. Behind me Lassen Peak dominates the scene. Hat Creek Ridge, which I’m walking on, was formed of the lava that flowed from Mt. Lassen. It reaches for miles and miles.

It’s been a day of road walking on temporary trail. The first six miles were dirt road and the rest paved. It’s been clear and sunny all day. There was no water along the route till I reached Rocky Springs at noon. That was the best water I’ve tasted in a long time. The springs came out of a jumble of lava right at the side of the road. The water was cold and clear and delicious, a real treat after all the snow melt and especially after the treated water I had to use last night.

All day long I’ve been walking toward Mt. Shasta, which rises high above all the other mountains ahead of me and dominates the horizon. The trail doesn’t go near it but I expect to have it in sight for several days.

About 2:00 I stopped at a small grocery store and bought some bread and a bunch of junk food. I’ve been eating granola bars and peanut butter fudge for lunch, but it just doesn’t fill me up the way bread does. I also got some butter so I can try making biscuits. I can’t say I enjoy walking on paved roads. The roadside is usually covered with cinders and chunks of lava so I have to walk on the pavement. It gets very hot and hard on the feet. I have 6 miles of paved highway ahead of me, then at least 150 miles of dirt roads or old logging roads. Very little of the trail is completed in northern California. I found a bunch of fish lures by the roadside this afternoon. Somebody lost his lure box. I picked them all up. Maybe I’ll be able to sell or trade them. I reached the intersection of Rts. 299 and 89 about 4:30 this afternoon. There was a guy with a truck selling fruits and vegetables there. I bought some oranges and tomatoes and a pepper. I’ll use some tomatoes and the pepper in dinner tonight. It’s going to be good. There’s a motel restaurant at the intersection and nothing else. I filled my 1 1/2 gallon water container there and hiked a bit down Rt. 89, then into the woods where I’ll camp tonight. The restaurant looked too fancy for me.

Skies were mostly cloudy for most of the day today. I spent about an hour this morning at Burney Falls in McArthur Memorial State Park. The falls were beautiful. The river fell about 50 ft. over green moss covered rocks. Mist rose from the bottom and sunlight glistened on the spray. It was like a scene out of a fairy tale. I took lots of pictures of it. After 6 miles of highway walking I hiked for 4 miles on finished trail, then the rest of the day on a paved Forest Service road. For 6 long miles I trudged uphill. Then for most of this afternoon I sped downhill. Actually it wasn’t so bad walking. The cloudy sky kept the road from heating up too much and a cool breeze did the same for me. There was very little traffic. The road was often lined with blossoming lilacs and other wildflowers. The forest on either side, dominated by pine, cedar and fir, was intermingled with oak and maple. The evergreens were the only trees to gain any kind of stature however. A few of the oaks reached a scrawny 30 ft. and all the maples I saw were just saplings. There’s plenty of water around here. The road followed one creek or another most of the way and there were several springs.

The weather forecast for tomorrow is for scattered showers. I may get to use my rain gear. Just now there’s a few clouds in the sky, but the sun is predominating. I’m camped next to a creek on a tiny patch of semi-level ground. There’s very little flat land around here. Everything slopes toward the stream. The mosquitoes are swarming around me and the ants are crawling everywhere but my tent is pitched and bug proof.

The rain forecast for today never materialized. It was cloudy when I got up this morning but by noon skies were mostly clear. The day started with about 4 miles of downhill walking followed by 10 miles of uphill, most of it on paved roads. This morning I shared the route with a continuous stream of logging trucks. The empty trucks would wind their way up the narrow twisting road with their trailers riding piggyback on the tractors. They would return grinding down the mountain with a load of pine logs destined for one of the many sawmills that provide a major source of employment in this area. Finally, about 9:30, I left most of the trucks behind. A mile later the pavement ended and I continued my climb on a dirt road. Only a few times did a diesel come by to break the silence. I finally saw some massive oak trees, still no large maples though. There were also a lot of raspberry and thimbleberry bushes, but they were all still blossoming and none had any ripe fruit. By noon I reached the high point on the trail and started a long 10 mile descent, again mostly on paved road. The route followed a river downward and wound its way around the ridges. Late this afternoon I reached McCloud Reservoir, an artificial lake created for power generation by Pacific Gas and Electric. The trail route follows a road along its west bank for 8 miles. There was a beautiful view of Mt. Shasta rising above the lake. I stopped to take some pictures, and as I was standing waiting in the hot sun for some clouds to move out of the way I suddenly felt very dizzy. I think it was just the sun and heat and full day’s hike, but I had to sit down in the road for a couple minutes. It passed quickly and I feel fine now. I walked 26 miles today. I’ll get to Castella tomorrow. I’m going to rest for a day or two in town.

Tonight I’m camped on a mountainside above one of the many arms of Lake McCloud. The water and the road, which had quite a bit of vacation traffic, are below me. I had to build a site on which to pitch my tent. The land all pitches steeply toward the lake. My site is just barely big enough. The mosquitoes here are as bad as last night, but fortunately my repellent works.

I put in another full day of hiking today. The trail was very poorly marked when it was marked at all. For 8 miles I walked on paved road, then for another 4 on a dirt road. Finally I got to a section of completed P.C.T. I followed it for about 2 miles uphill when suddenly it ended in the middle of nowhere. I wasn’t about to walk back down so I bushwhacked the rest of the way to the mountaintop where I picked up the trail route. It wasn’t finished, but the initial brush clearing was done so I could follow the route without too much difficulty. There were some magnificent views of Mt. Shasta along the way. Skies today were mostly sunny. Late this afternoon I came off the mountain to Soda Creek. The trail led straight down. I’d hate to have to climb that. The permanent P.C.T. up the mountain is under construction so soon hikers won’t have to climb straight up. I met three other P.C.T. hikers at the store in Castella. They’re headed south. They tell me there’s snow ahead. I guess I’ll never really get away from it. I got my mail at the P.O. My boots haven’t arrived yet. I’ll wait a couple days and see if they come in.

Tonight I’m staying at Castle Crags State Park. I took a long overdue shower and am feasting on ham and fresh zucchini. For breakfast I have bacon and eggs. Tomorrow I’ll hitch to Dunsmuir to do my laundry and shopping.

This town is suddenly overrun with P.C.T. hikers. The three who were here yesterday left this morning, but six more have arrived, two of whom are going north. There was a little get together at the local saloon. I spent most of the day in Dunsmuir. I got my boots in the mail this morning and also got a letter from Ann. I hitched about half way to town and then walked the last couple miles. There was a Laundromat and several stores in town. I did my laundry, and then walked to the Burger Bin where I had a gigantic banana boat. There was a group of ladies from the Sacramento River valley there who started talking with me. They gave me a dozen or so plums and several nectarines they had brought from home. I bought all kinds of groceries. My pack is really too heavy. Tomorrow I’m going to see what I can eliminate and mail home. I’ll also mail my boots back to Maine. As I was walking out of town I stopped at a little store advertising fishing goods and asked the guy if he bought used lures. I would like to get rid of them. He said he didn’t. Apparently he thought I was desperate for money because as I was walking away he sent a kid after me with a package of hot dogs.

It actually rained a bit today. Skies got really cloudy and from the looks of things it stormed hard to the north. We just got a few sprinkles. I think I’ll head out of town tomorrow. I have to write the report for the Sampler and a couple letters and get my boots packed and sent. I don’t expect to do many miles. I’m camped in the same spot as last night.

I’ve been really stuffing myself. For breakfast this morning I had half a pound of bacon, half a dozen eggs, several slices of whole wheat bread and butter, two peaches, a banana and two candy bars along with a cup of instant banana cream pudding and hot cocoa. Then I walked over to the store and topped it off with a half dozen doughnuts and a quart of orange juice. I couldn’t move for an hour or so after that.

The weather today has been gorgeous. I spent all morning writing up my report and finishing a couple letters. Then I packaged my old boots and sent them back to L.L.Bean with a letter asking for a refund. One of the hikers in town is from Maine and just happens to work for L.L.Bean. I included a note from her in the box so I should get good service. I went through my pack this morning and took out everything I haven’t yet used, except my rain gear. I packaged it all and mailed it home. I didn’t eliminate much weight but now I have a bit more room.

It was nearly two o’clock when I finally got out of town. I followed the railroad tracks back to where I left the trail, walked under the interstate and found a brand new sign pointing the way to the P.C.T. This is really beautiful trail. It’s well constructed, has signs at every intersection and has marker posts with the mileage engraved every kilometer. About 35 km. of the trail is done. I’ve walked about 10 km. this afternoon. For about 2 km. the route followed an old railroad bed through beautiful pine forest. Then it began winding its way around the mountains. A deer just wandered past my camp. I’m really enjoying this after all that road walking, even though my pack is overloaded.

My new boots aren’t hurting my feet too badly. I think I’ll get them broken in with a minimum of blisters. Tonight I’m going to Snowseal them to get ready for the wet going ahead. This place is swarming with ants and mosquitoes as usual. Not many are biting, but they’re really swarming around.

Today has been another beautiful day of very enjoyable hiking. Nearly all day I’ve been hiking uphill, gradually regaining the altitude I lost on descending to the Sacramento River. The trail wound around the Crags and climbed with countless switchbacks. By noon I was back into snow, but it is intermittent. I have to cross patches that range in width from a few feet to a mile or more. It’s not enough to hide the route though. Often I’ve had to traverse a steep snow covered slope. It’s tiring but the snow is soft enough for me to kick steps into it.

I saw three deer today. One of them was above me off the side of the trail. As it fled it kicked a fist-sized rock loose, which came tumbling down and across the trail a few feet ahead of me.

I passed about 9 other hikers out for the weekend this morning. Traffic is finally beginning to pick up. Tonight I’m camped near the ridge top beside a Forest Service road that is still blocked by snow. I’ve passed above several lakes and was going to hike down to one, but decided they were too far away. There are probably a lot of mosquitoes there anyway.

Breaking in my new boots is hurting my feet less than walking on pavement with my old boots did. I’ve gotten a couple tiny blisters and the heel of my right foot is no longer being irritated as it was with the old boots. I Snowsealed them last night and they stayed dry today.

I was awakened at 4:30 this morning by the splatter of occasional raindrops on the tent. A thunderstorm was raging far to the southwest and I was at its very fringe. I went to sleep last night under clear skies expecting no rain and left my gear strewn about. It took me about five minutes to get everything covered up and to put the fly on the tent. I didn’t think I was in the storm’s path but thought I’d better be safe. When I got up at 5:00 the storm was directly south of me and I wasn’t getting any more rain. By the time I finished breakfast it was off to the southeast and I took the tent down. It’s been mostly cloudy all day and I got sprinkled on intermittently. Now that the sun’s going down the sky is clearing.

I hiked most of the day on temporary trail. The route followed trails built long ago and not very well used. Often there was no pathway, just blazes on the trees. I was in snow most of the morning and have just re-entered more. The route climbed up and down over valleys all the way. I pushed on a few extra miles so I could camp next to Bull Lake. It’s still half ice covered and the south shore is buried under snow.

Many of the trails I walked this morning haven’t been used in a while. The only footprints on the path were those of deer. I don’t know what route the other hikers are using, but this is the one indicated on my maps for 1978.

These past few days have really been enjoyable. I like hiking in forests, and though the trail has been rough in places, it’s been very nice. I spent most of this morning walking down hill and all afternoon walking uphill. Except for a few patches this morning I’ve managed to stay out of snow. The day’s hiking included a little bit of everything including a couple of miles of highway walking and a stretch on a dusty dirt road around which loggers were busily working. At the mountaintops where the snow has receded and the sun warms the ground, patches of delicately shaded blue and violet flowers line the route. The manzanita is also flowering with hundreds of tiny pink bell shaped flowers on each plant. There are also bushes of white lily-like flowers and scatterings of other species. I’m going to have to get a book on mountain wildflowers. Today has been a beautiful sunny day. I quit for the day at 4:00 after doing about 18 miles. I’m camped above an open grassy meadow, my camera’s ready for pictures of deer. I’ve already seen a couple.

I’ve regained most of the altitude I gave up this morning. All afternoon I walked uphill on a dirt road beside Tangle Blue Creek. There are patches of snow a few feet from my tent and a lot on the mountain above me. I’m now in the Salmon Trinity Alps Primitive Area. The trail signs have either fallen down or been knocked down and I’m trying to figure them out. I think I have the right route picked out. I think there’s going to be a full moon tonight.

My tent got soaked from a heavy dew by the lake last night and I had to pack it wet. I pitched it as soon as I stopped and it’s pretty much dried out now. Yesterday, as I was walking down a dirt road wondering if I was lost, a man and a woman in an old Willy’s drove up and stopped to chat. After reassuring me I was on the right route they offered me a couple of bananas. That was a treat. I’m glad to know there are people like that here. The birds are singing as they have been all day and the air is scented with pine. There’s a bit of a breeze blowing and it’s getting cool. It’s about time to make supper.

I ran into snow a couple miles after I started this morning and had to navigate by map. These trails were marked long ago with i’s blazed into trees. Some of the areas have been logged over and the marker trees cut down. On many trees the scar has healed and is barely visible. When the snow covers the ground its impossible to find the trail. Till midmorning I made my own trail, occasionally coming upon blazes in my path. I saw several fresh bear tracks in the snow and scared a bear cub out of a tree and sent him running for mama who, fortunately, stayed out of sight. To get where I wanted to go I used paths worn by deer and bear and whatever else wanders these woods. In this way I avoided several miles of snowy trail. The route stayed on a northern slope while I stayed across the gully on a snow free southern slope. By 10:00 I reached the high point at 7100 ft. and descended steadily along a creek on the other side, quickly leaving the snow behind. At noon I reached a fork in the river and turned up the North Fork. About a mile up the trail I came upon an old cabin. The inside was in shambles but someone had left behind several cans of food, some without labels. I helped myself to some vegetables and tomato sauce and a can of New England clam chowder. The tomato sauce is for spaghetti that I have. I’ll eat well tonight.

All afternoon I climbed beside the creek, often very steeply. At about 4:00 I reached the ridge crest at 7,000 ft. About 1,000 ft. below me I could see Long Gulch Lake where I planned to camp. The trail wound down for 1 1/2 miles through deep snow. I decided to go straight down. By walking on my heels I was able to kick steps all the way down. The snow was just the right consistency for doing it. I was down in 20 min. I’m camped a couple hundred yds. from the lake which is still icebound. Tomorrow starts with more downhill and then a bit of road walking. I’ll pass a Forest Service campsite where I should be able to dump my garbage ( i.e. tin cans etc.) Late this morning I passed by the charred remains of a large tree beside the trail. It had been growing right alongside the path with its roots extending under the pathway. It was all turned to charcoal. There was a big hole in the ground where the roots had gone and tunnels where they had branched out. It must have been struck by lightning.

I had fresh trout instead of clam chowder for dinner last night. While I don’t have a fishing rod I do have some line and hooks. The fish were hungry and I pulled in a nice 8 incher. I had a much larger one take the bait but I couldn’t hook it. I fried the one I did get in margarine. It was delicious. Today is about the longest day of the year and I put in a full day of hiking. There wasn’t much snow though. This morning I came down off the mountain, following a creek thousands of feet down. Then I climbed beside another creek to regain the altitude I’d given up, then once again descended. I’m about 3 miles from the Salmon River alongside which I’ll once again climb.

I saw dozens of deer today. This afternoon I was descending through a beautiful pine forest beside North Russian Creek when I came to the edge of a woodland meadow. At the other end was a full grown brown bear. We both froze and stared at each other. It was about 30 yds. away. Then I slowly unshouldered my pack and reached inside for my camera. The bear didn’t wait to have its picture taken though. He went crashing off through the brush and I decided it was best not to go after him.

The trails I followed today have been very steep and often rough and rocky. There are a lot of trees downed by winter storms that haven’t been cleared yet. I was going to push on a few more miles to a Forest Service campground but was just too tired. Tomorrow starts with a bit of road walking. The weather’s been beautiful as usual.

Today has been a beautiful day of hiking. It started out with a few miles of walking on dirt roads to the beginning of a trail along the Salmon River. Parked near the trail were several trucks and horse trailers indicating this section was used by pack trains. Any trail used by horses has to be well built and maintained. This one was beautiful. I gradually climbed beside the river on a wide smooth trail through forests of pine, fir, maple, and oak. I didn’t see any horses though. Just before noon I left the main trail and crossed the river. Now I followed a trail up beside the north fork. It was a bit steeper and a bit rockier, but still nice trail. About 2:00 I again came to a fork in the trail and found myself on a path that was steeper and rockier still. This I followed to the ridge top where I’m camped tonight. I have now rejoined the permanent trail route and will stick near the ridge crest for the next day or two. Then I’ll descend beside a river into Seiad Valley. I stayed completely out of snow today, but the mountain slope to the south of me is covered with it and I anticipate walking in some tomorrow. I’m now in Marble Mountain Wilderness. This trail is probably the prettiest I’ve hiked since starting this trip. To the west skies are clear. To the east thunderheads are gathering over Mt. Shasta. There’s a breeze blowing but I’m, pretty well protected by pine trees. The land drops off sharply to the east and I can see houses in the valley far distant. I saw a couple of deer today and two snakes, one of which was swallowing a lizard.

All day long angry black clouds have been passing by to the south and east. But the sun continues to shine on me. I walked mostly high mountain trail with only a few limited ascents and descents. Except for some rough snowy traverses this morning and another this afternoon, the trail was generally good and dry. Early this morning I reached a steep snow covered bowl that the trail traversed at a slight climb. The snow had frozen overnight and was too solid for kicking steps into. I wouldn’t have been able to make it except someone went through yesterday when the snow was soft and left me a set of footprints to use.

I saw a couple deer today that seemed sick. They were very sluggish and had difficulty walking. I also saw 4 other hikers out on the trails. Now, in addition to bear and deer tracks on the trail, I’m also following boot prints.

Early this afternoon I hiked past Marble Mountain, which gives this wilderness its name. Tonight I’m camped near Paradise Lake. Unfortunately, it’s too shallow for my brand of fishing, but it’s ice free and very pretty. Marble Mtn. rises steeply behind it. The sky overhead is mostly clear and there’s a cold breeze blowing. It’s going to get cold again tonight. Tomorrow I’ll be hiking on the Big Ridge Trail. If it stays on the ridge top as its name implies I should have fairly easy snow free walking. I should reach Guider Creek along which I’ll descend all the way to Seiad Valley. I’ll be there Sunday it all goes well. My boots are nearly completely broken in and don’t bother my feet at all anymore. In fact they’re quite comfortable.

This morning was the coldest I’ve had in a long time. It wasn’t so much that the temperature got very low, though it did drop to near freezing, but it was a damp, windy kind of cold. Clouds were scraping the ridge top when I got up and there was a stiff cold breeze. I made breakfast, packed up and started walking to warm up. First I climbed to the top of Big Ridge, an exertion that somewhat warmed me. For several miles I followed the trail on the ridge. It stayed on the west side of the mountain, exposed to the wind. The path was nearly snow free. By contrast, the eastern slope, though sheltered from the breeze, was under one continuous snowdrift. The trail was fairly flat and smooth and my pack was lightened of its load of food so the going was easy. The weather did not encourage long rest stops so I moved right along, though I did stop long enough to get my mittens out of the bottom of the pack where they had been buried unused since the start of the trip. The ridge top trees had a coating of ice from contact with the clouds. It was cold and windy. Then it began to snow, not much, just an occasional flurry.

Finally I began the long descent from the ridge. The sun would occasionally pierce through the clouds and spotlight some distant mountain. Once or twice I was able to gather its warmth. Occasionally I walked in the clouds, usually I was below them. Quite suddenly a break in the clouds would reveal a wide panorama of mountains and valleys before me, then just as quickly it would vanish, swallowed by an angry black cloud. As I descended the air became warmer and the flurries changed to occasional drizzle. There’s something special about the forest on a rainy day. The birds and squirrels, who usually keep up a constant chatter, are silent, perhaps protesting the inclement weather or maybe just hidden away. When the breeze died I could stop and hear absolutely nothing. No cars, airplanes, machinery, or animals - nothing but pure silence.

I’ve been walking down hill all day, descending from 7,000 ft. to the Klamath River at about 1,300 ft. I’ll cross it in Seiad Valley, then begin the long climb back to the ridge top. The trail has been very good, easy to walk on. The sky this afternoon was partly sunny which means it was mostly cloudy and I was briefly showered upon several times. I’m camped about 6 miles away from town. Dark clouds are still drifting overhead and letting loose brief showers. I’ll write a "Sampler" report tonight and get to Seiad Valley tomorrow where I’ll stay till Monday when the P.O. opens.

I hiked into Seiad Valley early this morning. I’m staying at a trailer park that lets hikers camp for free. This morning I paid $.50 for a hot shower, a truly worthwhile investment. The campsite is occupied by three other hikers, all of whom are headed north. Two of them I met in Castella and followed here. It’s been cloudy all day but hasn’t yet rained. My tent is pitched with the fly attached but I don’t think I’ll need it. All day long I wrote letters and ate junk food. I never really stuffed myself though. For dinner I’m having canned spinach and hot dogs. I bought and packed five days of food and also got some eggs for breakfast. My next stop is Ashland, Oregon, which is a good-sized town. I’ll have to hitch 16 miles into it, but there’s supposed to be a couple backpacking stores there. I need some odds and ends and would like to get a collapsible fishing pole. I leave town after the Post Office opens tomorrow. I don’t want to spend any more money here.

Today dawned clear and sunny. I waited till 8:30 for the P.O. to open, mailed a stack of letters and started hiking about 9:00. For four hours I climbed, always steadily upward on newly constructed trail that climbed 4,000 ft. in 6 miles. The path wasn’t often very steep, utilizing switchbacks to gain altitude. When I was about 1/3 the way up a guy on a trail bike buzzed by. He and a partner were subcontractors who were putting the finishing touches on the trail. A couple hours later, near the end of my climb, I stopped to talk with them. The trail had been inspected shortly before by a government official and they were correcting the shortcomings, removing any rock over 3 in. in diameter and cutting out tiny roots that might possibly trip a hiker. The government has strict specifications for the finished trail. I also learned the average price for a mile of trail is $10,000.00, with some sections 250 yds long costing $250,000.00. This is expensive deer path.

By 1:30 I reached the top of Upper Devils Peak and my long climb was over. For the rest of the afternoon the route stayed near the ridge top. The scenery as usual was spectacular.

I’ve been running into the hikers from Maine who I first met in Castella. We don’t hike together but often meet during rest stops. They’re good company. I hiked till 7:00 tonight so I could camp atop Copper Butte. I was hoping to get some good pictures of Mt. Shasta far to the east, but it was in the clouds. Maybe I’ll get some in the morning. This mountain is dry so I had to pack in water. The next spring is 8 miles away. I’ll have no problem. I’m now 17 miles from Oregon. Tomorrow night I’ll be out of California.

Today has been one gorgeous day. It started out crystal clear with a warm breeze. The trail was nearly snow free and the views were spectacular. For the first time I encountered a herd of cattle in a high mountain meadow through which the trail led. Each steer had a bell around its neck and as they moved around they produced a chorus of melody.

As I passed through a wooded section midmorning I came upon a young fawn lying behind a fallen tree in the middle of the trail. It was very weak and not moving. The mother wasn’t around, though I did see her in the distance. I tried to get the fawn to stand but it wouldn’t. There was nothing I could do for it except move it out of the shade into the warm sun and hope the mother would eventually come back to it. A few miles further on I saw another doe with a fawn following along like a puppy dog.

Mt. Shasta still dominates the horizon to the south. At the moment the sky is filled with puffy white clouds and Mt. Shasta is looming out of the haze with its head in a cloud.

About 3:00 this afternoon I crossed the state line into Oregon somewhere in the middle of a burned and logged over forest, not the best of ways to first encounter a state. I’ll be doing a lot of walking on roads the next few days. The trail here isn’t completed either. Tonight I’m camped near a ridge top above a dirt road I expect to be following tomorrow. The mountains spread out ahead of me. I saw three other hikers on the trail today, two going north and one going south.

Oregon welcomed me last night with my first real rain of the trip, a thunderstorm that began about 10:00 and lasted several hours. When I went to sleep skies were clear and I wasn’t expecting rain. The first large rain drops roused me and I quickly made the camp water tight, bringing my boots and socks into the tent, covering the pack, and putting the fly on the tent. When I made camp I didn’t even think about drainage, it’s been so long since I had rain. The tent was pitched in the middle of an old roadway on a slight slope. The roadway itself was carved into the side of a fairly steep mountain. Fortunately the soil was very loose and all the water sank in without any runoff. The tent was really watertight and withstood the wind well.

This morning dawned partly cloudy, then cleared to a hazy sunshine. By noon thunderclouds covered the sky. More trail has been completed than I thought. Nearly all day I walked on beautiful trail, some of it just completed. There was only one section about 2 miles long on a paved road. I was walking that when a thunderstorm hit complete with wind, heavy rain, and even hail. For the first time I used my rain gear. My boots and socks got soaked. Tomorrow I expect more road walking but maybe I’ll be surprised.

I’m camped a few miles from I5 and am experiencing another thunderstorm. This section of the trail goes through private land. There are signs posted saying "No fires - Please stay on trail". I could see the storm approaching and wanted to be set up before it hit so I pitched my tent right in the trail, which is the only flat ground around anyway. I’ve trenches dug for drainage and was secure before the rain started. I’m on the trail and, at least, obeying the letter of the law.

I met an inspector on the trail this morning. He was checking a section that had just been cleaned and groomed. I asked if a trail crew had been through and he replied it was a crew of sorts; the work was being done be a subcontractor who had a couple of "jackasses" on the job. About a mile further on I came upon two men who I assumed were the "jackasses" doing a credible job on the path. Half a mile further on I rounded a corner and nearly bumped into two kids with two donkeys, one of which was loaded with gear - chain saw, shovels, etc.

On a brand new section of trail this afternoon I came upon a quail with a flock of chicks. The quail wouldn’t let me get a picture of her, but I got several of the chicks.

Thunder is crashing all around me and the rain falls steadily. I hope it quits for a while so I can make dinner. I don’t want to use the stove in the tent. I’ll have no trouble getting to Ashland on Friday morning. With a little luck I’ll be back on the trail by night. More thunderstorms are forecast for tomorrow.

I’m now in Ashland, Oregon, the biggest city I’ve seen in a while. Today dawned cloudy and stayed cloudy all morning. I walked on a lot of beautiful trail though, pine woods shrouded in mist and meadows lined with wildflowers. My map shows mostly road walking, but most of the route had been completed and the trail was very well built and maintained. By noon the sky was partly sunny and by 3:00 I had reached route 66. It took about 15 min. to hitch a ride into Ashland. I got a ride from a logger in a van. In town at the Laundromat I ran into Annie and Dana, the couple from Maine who I’ve been playing tag with the past few days. Tonight I treated myself to a steak dinner at a local restaurant. For the night I’m staying with them in a house that is in the process of being remodeled. The inside is gutted but the plumbing works. Tomorrow I’ll stay in town shopping and resting. Saturday I’ll return to the trail. The weather has been wet. It started raining shortly after I got into Ashland and has been raining all evening. It’s nice to be clean again.

This morning for breakfast I had blueberry pancakes heaped with whipped cream at a restaurant in town. It was a real treat. The sky was mostly sunny all day and it got quite hot. I got my grocery shopping done; again I bought more than I need. At least this time I won’t have to haul it up to the ridge top. The camera accessories I wanted to get were too expensive so I decided to do without. I got a new pair of hiking shorts, socks, Sno-seal, and Gerry tubes. I also got a fishing pole, a telescoping rod and an inexpensive reel. Hopefully there’s fish in my future diet.

I got a standing room ticket to "Richard III" at the outdoor Elizabethan Theater here in Ashland tonight. In the past 30 years the show has been rained out only 10 times. Tonight was number 11. I saw about an hour of the play. It was sprinkling from the start and the clouds finally opened up and it poured. I got a refund of the ticket price and will buy breakfast tomorrow.

Tonight I’m staying with the logger who gave me a ride into town and will be riding back to the trail with him early tomorrow morning. The next few days are supposed to be wet with showers and thundershowers.

The logger never came home last night. I guess he decided to take the day off. I got up about 5:30 and walked a mile to a restaurant for bacon, eggs, and pancakes. The sky was partly sunny early this morning but it quickly clouded over. I stood in front of the restaurant for 3 hours before getting a ride back to the trail. I really don’t enjoy hitching. Finally a guy in a big Mercury stopped. As we drove up to the ridge top we gradually left the clouds below and found the sun. When I got out on top the sun was shining and the sky above me was clear. Below the clouds hugged the ground and crawled on the mountains in the distance. It was great to be back on the trail, away from all that traffic. All day I walked on beautiful pathway through fields and forests. Late this afternoon the sky finally clouded over. I’m camped on the ridge top above a small spring. The clouds are scraping the treetops and thunder rumbles ominously in the distance. I’m surrounded by pines which break the wind and I’ve dug a drainage trench around the tent. I’m ready for foul weather.

There were seven other backpackers all headed north on the trail today. There wasn’t a trace of snow, though I do expect a bit more in a couple days. Today’s weather was beautiful for hiking and I can’t complain about the clouds now. Mt. Shasta is still visible to the south. I’ve circled halfway around it.

I didn’t start hiking till 10:00 this morning and quit just before 6:00. It looks like it could start raining any minute and I wanted to be prepared.

Today’s been a cool cloudy day with occasional light rain and a slight breeze. It rained a little last night, but it was hardly enough to get anything wet. The temperature never got above 50. At midmorning I again ran into Annie and Dana and I’ve hiked with them all afternoon. For miles the trail crossed a large lava field. The path was built up of rocks and topped with a layer of red lava stones about 1 " in diameter and relatively round. While the effect was pleasing to the eye - a red path through gray rubble- it was hard on the feet. It’s hard to walk on gravel.

I’m impressed with the trail in Oregon. It’s well built, completed, and easy to walk on. There’s no more road walking from here on in. Tonight we’re camped near Freye Lake about .1 mile off the PCT. It’s a very shallow lak